IPMS Scale ModelWorld 2010 part seven

Today's post is another tutorial and again inspired by Ian Sadler.

While I was speaking to Ian he gave me an information sheet which detailed the production of rivets. I am using the information with Ian's permission but it is also worth pointing out that the original idea was given to Ian by Norman Robinson of the Wombourne Modelling Club.

Rivets by the Million

You will need to obtain a Boots Own Label Hard Water Filter Canister (Think Brita's Water Filter). I picked one up for less than £5.00, however you may be able to use a different brand.

Cut the top off the canister and open the inner bag, you can now dry the contents by placing on an oven-proof plate and placing them in an oven - use the plate warming setting rather than fierce heat. There are literally thousands of small porcelain beads of different sizes in every canister.

PLEASE NOTE; Do not try to dry these beads in a microwave!

Once fully dry and cooled, place the beads into a jar.

To use, select the right size drill and drill a small depression (we are not looking for a true hole - just the start of one - about three turns should do). Pick up the right size bead (there are a variety of sizes in each filter) and place into the hole. You can glue after the bead is in place with Liquid Poly Glue or as I have by placing a tiny amount of superglue in the hole, use a cocktail stick to place the glue.

There is a life-time supply of beads in one canister and a variety of sizes which can be used to represent rivets, bolt heads and even buttons on uniforms!

There is even a tip on colouring the beads. Place a small square of foil on your workbench and add Gold Printers ink, then roll the beads in the ink, use some more foil to place over the top and roll them together until the ink is absorbed. Once dry the beads will maintain the colour.

"Yet another great reason for you to visit the IPMS Show in Telford next year. You can meet with Ian and thank him for this great modelling tip!"

I will add - that I have used this technique with the larger beads and found it perfect for my needs. Modellers who are a little more 'detailed' than me will find that the smaller beads are perfect for true-scale representations of tiny rivets.

I also use the punched plastic card and the sliced plastic rod techniques to great effect, but as stated above, I am more of a fun modellers and some might baulk at this over-scale and exaggerated modelling.

Tony