Cold Comfort Lane - Low Relief Building part five

The building was basecoated with a dark grey acrylic paint to which I have added some ModPodge matt medium.

 

I find that this helps with both sealing the foam and bringing all the various material together ready for painting.

The first real colour was a dull putty colour or dirty cream which will be the basis of the mortar, the gaps between the bricks as well as acting as a base for the orange/red brick colours.

The next step will be the painting the bricks. Please check back for further updates very soon.

Tony

Cold Comfort Lane - Low Relief Building part four

With the construction of the walls finished it was on to the roof. I had some railway wagon siding or contoured plastic card profiles in my collection and cut this to length before gluing the panels in place with superglue. Once in place I trimmed the panels to size and later added more 3mm thick plastic card to the apex. The large sign was also constructed from plastic card.

Any gaps or missing detail on the roof/sign joins were either filled with DAS modelling clay or the joins were trimmed with lengths of tape which was sealed with superglue. I cut small squares of plastic card to act as fasteners for the roof panels and these were glued in place with liquid cement.

The final image for this post shows the low relief warehouse in place on the layout (Note - not glued in place). My next posts will give details of how I painted the building, but for now you can start to see how the building will fit in or on to the layout.

Tony

Grand Manner Iberian Windmill - Miniature Wargames issue 520

The latest issue of Miniature Wargames (520 - August 2026) includes this article written by me showing how I painted a resin windmill for a friend. The model was available from Grand Manner (but is no longer in production).

The four part resin model was purchased on ebay and was very well cast in a putty coloured resin.

I re-based the windmill on to a piece of 3mm thick plastic card and built up the groundwork with ready mixed filler and DAS modelling clay which was then decorated with sieved stones and sand applied over PVA glue.

Painted followed my usual techniques but was a little more subdued than normal using washes and acrylic tints to produce the sun drenched effect.

The sails were painted in a Linen coloured acrylic paint and highlighted with white. When finished the whole model was varnished with a Galleria matt varnish and ModPodge mix then presented to my friend earlier this year.

Tony

Cold Comfort Lane - Low Relief Building part three

With the brickwork done (see earlier post) it was on to adding detail. I have used a number of different materials to decorate the warehouse such as plastic card and balsawood then watered-down ready mixed filler and acrylic paste to add additional texture and cover up any gaps particularly to the left where the insulation foam on the side meets the front.

Ideally I would have liked to have set the doors back a bit more but as this is a low relief building I can live with it.

As you can see I have tried to copy the design seen in earlier posts as closely as possible.

Tony

Cold Comfort Lane - Low Relief Building part two

The cardboard 'core' has been clad with insulating foam, the sort used as underlay for laminate flooring. The foam has been glued in place with a mix of PVA and superglue. Once fully set, I have trimmed the foam to fit the core and then lightly sanded the edges to make them flush.

The next job was to cut out the windows and door (see previous post) and then start the laborious task of adding the brick texture.

Each scale brick was 8mm x 2,5mm and first had the horizontal cuts made with a scalpel guided with a steel ruler the individual bricks were cut with a scalpel and then later opened up with a sharp pencil. This process took most of the day, but as I was watching/listening to the tennis the time went quickly.

The roof was clad with thinner card and glued in place with the PVA and superglue mix.

The next post will show how I have started to add detail to this low profile building.

Tony

Cold Comfort Lane - Low Relief Building

It's been a while since I have posted any progress on this layout. In truth 'other projects' have taken priority but all that changed this week.

If you check back on earlier Blog posts you will see that the area to the rear, right has not been detailed. This is because my plan from the start was to include a low relief building, a factory or workshop. The image above was inspired by a derelict building seen in Kidderminster. The drawing is my scale plan and the cardboard 'core' below is the start of this series of Blog posts..

I have used materials that I had on-hand - a real mismatch of scraps I had in my shed, corrugated cardboard, foamboard with 4mm and 6mm thick plastic card (ex- advertising signs picked up for free). I have used both superglue and my hot glue gun to hold everything together.

The core is 290mm long x 70mm deep x 215mm tall.

The final image shows the building 'core' with one of the scratch built wagons (that have featured in earlier posts) shown for scale.

Expect updated soon.

Tony

Burrows & Badgers Statue - Miniature Wargames issue 519

My latest article for Miniature Wargames is this Burrows & Badgers Statue, a modified chess piece mounted on a scratch built plinth. Issue 519 (July 2026) features this model on the cover as well as including a three page tutorial on how this conversion was achieved.

For more information, see the magazine. I have included a couple of additional images of the statue as well as a single image of some scratch built or modified toys that I have also converted in to 28mm scale statues for my gaming table.

Tony

Clutch from Maverick Games

Congratulations to all at Maverick Games on the recent reveal of their new open world driving game CLUTCH. For more information, see this link.

Tony

Narrow Gauge Railway book finds

This last week I have been lucky enough to pick up some Wild Swan Publication guides from charity shops in the local area. The first was this pair of books by Gordon Gravett; 7mm Modelling part one - an introduction and 7mm Modelling part two - building the layout. Both were picked up in Droitwich Spa for just £3.00 each. I look forward to reading both.

The next purchase is Plastic Structure Kits by Iain Rice. A real bargain at just £1.99 and this time found in Worcester from another charity shop. It looks like there might have been a railway modelling enthusiast who was clearing out some of his older books. Whatever the case I now have three Wild Swan Publications for my collection.

You can never underestimate the value of browsing charity shops. You never know what you might find.

Tony

Basing 101 - part six

At last we are at the end of this short series of posts showing how I go about modelling, painting and decorating my model terrain bases. The image above shows the barricade (Alternative Armies - see this link) matt varnished with a mix of both Galleria matt varnish and matt ModPodge (about 50/50) then decorated with a green dyed sawdust and ground foam mix which has been applied over standard PVA glue. Once this is fully dry I have added a variety of static grass tufts and ground foam clumps which are glued in place with superglue.

I started this short series because I had been asked by a friend 'how do you paint and finish your bases?' My reply was to send him a detailed e-mail response but afterwards I thought there maybe others who would be interested in seeing/reading a more detailed description than is normally included in my Miniature Wargames HOW TO or Hobby Tips articles, where space does not always allow such a detailed description and list of supplies.

I can confirm that I have been using the same or a very similar basing technique for well over ten years with very little amendment. I believe that this formalised approach to basing helps in two ways - firstly it unifies ALL of my terrain, scratch built or shop bought and secondly has proven with the test of time and game play that the technique holds up well to regular handling and abuse and if needed repair.

As stated in earlier posts, I would be interested in comments positive or negative, as to what readers may think of this new approach and if you would like to see more.

I can confirm that John (editor of Miniature Wargames) has been supportive of me including 'add-on's' to the published articles that regularly appear in MW but I would still like to read what blog readers think and if possible what you would like to see in future 'add-on's'.

Never the less I hope that you have enjoyed this slight detour and have found it both interesting and informative.

Tony

Two of a Kind - Miniature Wargames issue 518

Another month and another article written by me and featured in Miniature Wargames issue 518 (June 2026). But this time something a little different.....

It was around Christmas 2025 that I was struck down with a virus and not really up to writing anything for John and really not wanting to go down the shed-at-the-bottom-of-the-garden and do any modelling. As it turned out I was able to complete a model and write a short article (see issue 515 - A scratch built French Storehouse - this link). Later and back to feeling better I decided that I needed to build up a back catalogue of articles to give myself a buffer should this ever happen again. Searching through some older image folders, I found these two models - a Fantasy Hovel and a French Bakehouse both were originally constructed as commissions to be moulded, cast in resin and then sold but for various reasons neither were accepted. Never the less I do feel that by combining both models in one HOBBY TIPS article they could be of interest to the reader.

The first model was meant to be included in the now sadly missed range of terrain for Panzerfauste - the fantasy WW1/WW2 crossover game. Part way through construction it was deemed to be 'to Fantasy' and was not taken up for development into a resin casting. For some time it sat on my to-do list of shame but was eventually completed as an addition to my Pax Bochemannica range of themed terrain as can be seen in this image.

The second building - a French Bakehouse was based on an image found in a book on French regional architecture. Once again my master was rejected and never placed in a mould or cast in resin. I did eventually complete the model and added it to my ever expending range of Flintloque themed terrain.

The last two images are included to show additional views of the two small buildings in a gaming environment with first Flintloque Todaroni and secondly more Pax Bochemannica Boch.

Finally I would hope that this unusual article showing 'failed' commissions might prompt others to complete their own part-finished or neglected pieces of terrain. Whatever I hope you enjoy the images.

Tony

Basing 101 - part five

The groundwork or base was first painted in a Snakebite Leather colour - a sample or tester pot mixed up for me at my local DIY store. I find this much more economical than using my limited supply of GW Snakebite. I do find that I sometimes need to apply two thin coats rather than one, but this is a small price to pay when painting bases.

Once I have an all-over covering I can add some variation by mixing in a little yellow or white to the base mix and dabbing this in a random fashion.

The groundwork is then drybrushed with  the same Snakebite colour to which I have added some Titanium White tube paint (once again not wanting to waste my figure painting pots of paint on large bases).

Individual stones are then painted grey (sometimes cream) and highlighted once or twice with white added to the mix. The effect is a 'busy' base which can also be 'washed' with a Flesh or Strong Tone wash to define the stone and sand texture.

A darker wash has been run along the lower edges of the barricade to add shadows. I sometimes used a green wash if I want to portray damp or mould rising up the lower walls of buildings. 

We are quickly getting to the end of this short series or tutorial on how I paint my terrain (and figure) bases and I hope that it has proven useful to others. As stated in my earlier post I am NOT trying to tell you how to paint YOUR bases, I am just giving details of how I paint and finish mine.

Tony

Basing 101 - part four

As this short series of posts is all about basing I will quickly skip the main painting of the resin barricade (Alternative Armies - see this link).

An all-over dark brown basecoat was followed by a light drybrushing to pick out all that lovely sculpted detail.

The detail painting consisted of painting the sacks in a Linen colour and the bench seat with bright red - just to add some spot colour.

The wooden planks were highlighted with various 'wood' colours before being given a light wash of Dark Tone wash.

In the next post (due very soon) I will once again concentrate on the painting and finishing of the base.

Tony

Normandy Cider Press - Miniature Wargames issue 517

Issue 517 (May 2026) of Miniature Wargames features this scratch built model of a rural cider press. The inspiration came from an illustration in a Normandy holiday brochure, a sketch in a book about regional French architecture and the internet. It is scaled to 28mm wargame scale as can be seen by the Flintloque RifleOrc alongside.

This months issue of Miniature Wargames was very late in arriving with me - I had seen copies in T G Jones (W H Smiths) earlier last week but my issue did not arrive until this morning - a good 10 days later than usual. The free sprue was slightly damaged but acceptable although I am not sure I will be using it.

As with earlier posts showing magazine articles written by me, I have included a couple of additional images to show construction. and painting.

In the magazine article I asked - is this a model or a piece of wargame terrain? What do you think?

Tony

Basing 101 - part three

The next step in my basing regime is to add some additional texture to the groundwork. I use sieved stones and sand over PVA glue. It is not just a matter of sprinkling these over the glue - I prefer to add the sieved stones first and then the sand which is a mix of fine sand and some larger grains - the more variation the better. I have a small container with the mixed sand already mixed and ready to use at a moments notice.

Once the stones and sand have been added and the glue is fully dry, I 'flood' the base with some diluted PVA glue to which I have added a tiny drop of washing-up liquid which helps to break the surface tension and ensure that all the individual grains of sand are fully fixed in place.

I am aware that my basing techniques are a little 'long-winded' but they have been developed over many years and ensure that 1 - my terrain bases are all uniform in style and 2 - they are long lasting.

I hope that these posts showing my basing technique in much greater detail helps others when basing their own terrain.

Tony