Following on from part two - I have set out in photos how I finish the skeleton painting. A technique which is very quick, but I hope you agree effective.
Photo One - Shows some additional highlighting on the bones. Mainly pure Skull White applied with a fine pointed brush.
Photo Two - The first 'wash'. I have used a plastic card palette and mixed Thraka Green and Leviathan Purple from Games Workshop in equal parts to produce a dirty grey colour. Then diluted it with some distilled water and liberally brushed it on with a medium size brush. It is better to add layers rather than trying to do this all in one go.
Photo Three - The wash has both highlighted and aged the bare skeleton without obliterating any of the detail.The axe handle is a mix of Stonewall Grey from Vallejo and Snakebite Leather from Games Workshop. While the axe head was built up over Beastial Brown with a mix of Games Workshop metalics. The final highlight was a small touch of Hot Orange from Vallejo.
Photo Four - The groundwork was first painted a very pale cream - actually a tester pot of acrylic paint from Dulux - Antique Pine. I have a number of these pots and keep them specifically for basing. It is my intention that should I ever get around to building a Typhon gaming board I will use this Dulux paint as the base colour.
Photo Five - A wash of Gryphonne Sepia from GW.
Photo Six - A highlight of first Legionnaires Flesh/Skull White and then a second highlight of pure Skull White drybrushed onto the stones. 
I decided not to add the rather large Hoplite shield that comes with the figure, preferring to have this particular skeleton lightly armed.There you have it, my recipe for painting skeletons. In the next instalment I will detail my varnishing regime and how I finish off the bases.
Tony
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